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Main
Date: 27 Dec 2006 20:50:30
From: Ben Ho
Subject: Lead tape
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I'm an 8 handicapper and find it virtually impossible to hit a draw with my
driver. I can draw long irons and 3 & 5 woods without too much problem.
I use a Ben Hogan C-S3 9.5 loft Neutral with an Aldila 70 S (Stiff) Shaft.
My standard let it rip drive goes around 240 metres (260 or so yards) with a
slight fade. I have tried closing the face at address, a little gives me a
low, boring, straight shot, if I close the face more it usually squirts out
to the left.
I am toying with the idea of applying some lead tape to the heel side of the
base of the club.
If anyone could offer any advice I'd appreciate it.
PS the Ben Hogan driver has weighted screws alla R7. However unlike the R7
they are not moveable. They come factory set, they must be glued in. Mine is
set neutral, i.e. heaviest weight is in the centre. Does anyone know if it
is possible to move the screws around, somehow?
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Date: 28 Dec 2006 22:33:54
From: Birdie Bill
Subject: Re: Lead tape
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On Dec 28, 5:35 pm, Howard Brazee <how...@brazee.net > wrote:
> On 28 Dec 2006 13:46:59 -0800, "Birdie Bill"
>
> <bighorn_b...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> >I know a lot of good players play a fade or draw on purpose, to
> >eliminate one side of the fairway. But that doesn't mean they lack
> >the ability to adjust it or bend it the other way if they need to.That has to be a psychological thing. Unless there is some reason to
> prefer a curve, the geometry of where the ball lands is the same -
> except with a fade or draw, the ball will also roll sideways.
Well, there are pros who do teach that you should either play a fade
or a draw, because you will always know what to expect, and you can
play away from trouble on one side of the fairway. The advantage
of a draw are that it will tend to run more, and the advantage
of a fade is that it will tend to run less.
I think a lot of this teaching came from a different era of smaller
clubheads when it was much more difficult to hit a straight
drive. These days, though, with modern equipment it is
much easier.
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Date: 28 Dec 2006 13:46:59
From: Birdie Bill
Subject: Re: Lead tape
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On Dec 27, 8:19 am, "sfb" <s...@spam.net > wrote:
> Huh?? Where is that carved in stone? Bending the ball at will and low
> handicaps are not joined at the hip.
Yeah, maybe. I just don't see it as that big of a deal. I would think
that anyone with a single digit handicap should be hitting mostly
straight drives, with the occasional bender, and the ability to
tweak his swing one way or the other to adjust the bend as
required. But I don't have any statistics on it, that's for sure.
I know a lot of good players play a fade or draw on purpose, to
eliminate one side of the fairway. But that doesn't mean they lack
the ability to adjust it or bend it the other way if they need to.
But never-the-less, it appeared like the original poster wanted
to hit draws and viewed the fade as a problem. In that case,
he can either change his swing or change his equipment.
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Date: 28 Dec 2006 23:35:13
From: Howard Brazee
Subject: Re: Lead tape
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On 28 Dec 2006 13:46:59 -0800, "Birdie Bill"
<bighorn_bill@hotmail.com > wrote:
>I know a lot of good players play a fade or draw on purpose, to
>eliminate one side of the fairway. But that doesn't mean they lack
>the ability to adjust it or bend it the other way if they need to.
That has to be a psychological thing. Unless there is some reason to
prefer a curve, the geometry of where the ball lands is the same -
except with a fade or draw, the ball will also roll sideways.
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Date: 28 Dec 2006 11:06:11
From: Mike Dalecki
Subject: Re: Lead tape
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Ben Ho wrote:
> I'm an 8 handicapper and find it virtually impossible to hit a draw with my
> driver. I can draw long irons and 3 & 5 woods without too much problem.
> I use a Ben Hogan C-S3 9.5 loft Neutral with an Aldila 70 S (Stiff) Shaft.
> My standard let it rip drive goes around 240 metres (260 or so yards) with a
> slight fade. I have tried closing the face at address, a little gives me a
> low, boring, straight shot, if I close the face more it usually squirts out
> to the left.
> I am toying with the idea of applying some lead tape to the heel side of the
> base of the club.
> If anyone could offer any advice I'd appreciate it.
>
> PS the Ben Hogan driver has weighted screws alla R7. However unlike the R7
> they are not moveable. They come factory set, they must be glued in. Mine is
> set neutral, i.e. heaviest weight is in the centre. Does anyone know if it
> is possible to move the screws around, somehow?
>
>
Lead tape will have a very, *very* minor influence on the performance of
the club. It may have a more significant influence on your swing.
Where tape might matter is in feel. I've tried, for instance, hitting
light drivers; light=more speed, right? Except that I can't feel the
driver at the top of the swing, and it results in a timing issue for me
if the driver is too light.
Heavier SW is better FOR ME, and the easy way to change swingweight is
to add a few grams of lead tape to the head of the club.
So what you may find is that lead tape helps you with tempo or timing or
feel, and it may have nothing to do with how the club as a club performs.
FWIW: Tom Wishon--who I am not that big a fan of, BTW--argues that you
need something like 40 grams to even begin to have an effect; a little
lead tape is not going to do anything noticeable. And the weights you
see in clubs? If they were so great, you'd see everybody using them.
Mike
--
Mike Dalecki GCA Accredited Clubmaker http://clubdoctor.com
RSG-Wisconsin 2006 Report http://dalecki.net/rsgwis2006/pics/
RSG-Wisconsin 2007: June 22-24----Lawsonia!
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Date: 27 Dec 2006 05:54:45
From: Birdie Bill
Subject: Re: Lead tape
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On Dec 27, 3:50 am, "Ben Ho" <beevoc > wrote:
> I'm an 8 handicapper and find it virtually impossible to hit a draw with my
> driver. I can draw long irons and 3 & 5 woods without too much problem.
> I use a Ben Hogan C-S3 9.5 loft Neutral with an Aldila 70 S (Stiff) Shaft.
> My standard let it rip drive goes around 240 metres (260 or so yards) with a
> slight fade. I have tried closing the face at address, a little gives me a
> low, boring, straight shot, if I close the face more it usually squirts out
> to the left.
I think you could probably benefit from lessons. At your level, you
should
be able to bend it right or left at will.
If you don't want to go that route, though, you might consider changing
drivers. Maybe something with a draw bias, or a regular flex shaft. I
don't think you'll get much from moving the lead tape around.
On the other hand, a 260 yd drive with a slight fade isn't a bad thing
to have.
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Date: 27 Dec 2006 09:19:04
From: sfb
Subject: Re: Lead tape
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Huh?? Where is that carved in stone? Bending the ball at will and low
handicaps are not joined at the hip.
"Birdie Bill" <bighorn_bill@hotmail.com > wrote in message
news:1167227685.037072.13290@f1g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
>
>
> I think you could probably benefit from lessons. At your level, you
> should be able to bend it right or left at will.
>
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Date: 27 Dec 2006 13:32:58
From: Dave Lee
Subject: Re: Lead tape
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"Ben Ho" <beevoc > wrote in message news:459241f8$1@dnews.tpgi.com.au...
> I'm an 8 handicapper and find it virtually impossible to hit a draw with
my
> driver. I can draw long irons and 3 & 5 woods without too much problem.
> I use a Ben Hogan C-S3 9.5 loft Neutral with an Aldila 70 S (Stiff)
Shaft.
> My standard let it rip drive goes around 240 metres (260 or so yards) with
a
> slight fade. I have tried closing the face at address, a little gives me a
> low, boring, straight shot, if I close the face more it usually squirts
out
> to the left.
> I am toying with the idea of applying some lead tape to the heel side of
the
> base of the club.
> If anyone could offer any advice I'd appreciate it.
>
> PS the Ben Hogan driver has weighted screws alla R7. However unlike the R7
> they are not moveable. They come factory set, they must be glued in. Mine
is
> set neutral, i.e. heaviest weight is in the centre. Does anyone know if it
> is possible to move the screws around, somehow?
>
>
From what I have read you have to move somewhere around 20-30 grams of lead
tape to move the COG enough to to matter. Adding that much would result in a
HUGE swingweight change (and flex change).
Experimenting is pretty cheap, easy, and can be 'un-done'. But it also most
likely will not be a big help. If you could actually move some weight rather
than adding some, that would be a better path. But that sounds iffy in your
situation.
dave
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