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Main
Date: 11 Jan 2007 04:27:22
From: squelchy
Subject: Graphite shaft damage
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Hi
I have just removed a Benross V12+ head from an alvida NVS orrange
shaft and think I have over heated the head as when removed the head
the graphite shaft has started to fray about 1 inch from the tip and a
paper thin amount of graphite there is also a small bubble about 1/8th
of an inch on the tip also.
My questions are this is there anyway I can save the shaft as have
bought a brand new Geek driver head to replace the Benross one as this
cracked at the welds and was bought second hand so no way to get come
back from manufacturer ?
I was wondering if you can stik the graphite back with epoxy or should
I cut off the effected part and make the shaft shorter I believe it
will make the shaft stiffer it the second is option is done.
I am an under hight golffer i.e only 5,3" tall and think a shorter
shaft would better my performance due to this.
any help would be very welcomed.
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Date: 11 Jan 2007 10:11:41
From: squelchy
Subject: Re: Graphite shaft damage
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Dave Lee wrote:
> "Mike Dalecki" <mike@removeclubdoctor.com> wrote in message
> news:50mtr7F1gmknkU1@mid.individual.net...
> > squelchy wrote:
> > > Hi
> > >
> > >snip
> >
> > You can, if you can identify where on the shaft the damage stops,
> > tip-trim it to that place, and see if you have enough parallel tip
> > section to still install it in the clubhead. I looked up the Aldila NVS
> > online, and the parallel tip section is 3", which means you'll probably
> > barely have enough, after trimming the damage, to seat it in the hosel.
> >
> > But realize that tip trimming will significantly change the feel of the
> > club for you, making it stiffer. A lot stiffer.
> >
> > That may or may not be a bad thing, but the club's playing
> > characteristics will change significantly.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > PS: The trick to pulling shafts is that pressure is more important than
> > heat. I never use a torch to heat a clubhead, only a heat gun. I put
> > pressure on the shaft/clubhead union using a shaft puller, then heat the
> > hosel. The instant the epoxy bond fails, I crank the puller as fast as
> > I can to get the head off as quickly as possible.
> >
> > You don't need a ton of heat to compromise the epoxy, but you do need
> > significant pressure. And it has to be straight-line pressure (no
> > twisting) to effectively pull graphite shafts so they can be used again.
> >
> >
> > --
> > Mike Dalecki GCA Accredited Clubmaker http://clubdoctor.com
> > RSG-Wisconsin 2006 Report http://dalecki.net/rsgwis2006/pics/
> > RSG-Wisconsin 2007: June 22-24----Lawsonia!
>
> Mike, a few weeks ago I pulled a stubborn steel shaft off a 5i by putting
> the head end in a gas grill for 5 minutes or so. Are you saying that I
> shouldn't do this with my graphite shafted driver :-)
>
> dave
Thank for your help I will bin the shaft :(
I would not want to damage the new geek head with it flying off and
hitting my golffing partner.
I will have to invest agian :(
thank you for the advice on pulling shafts I must invest in a shaft
puller then.
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Date: 11 Jan 2007 07:29:20
From:
Subject: Re: Graphite shaft damage
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Wow, Mike...that was an incredibly good post!
Mike Dalecki wrote:
> squelchy wrote:
> > Hi
> >
> > I have just removed a Benross V12+ head from an alvida NVS orrange
> > shaft and think I have over heated the head as when removed the head
> > the graphite shaft has started to fray about 1 inch from the tip and a
> > paper thin amount of graphite there is also a small bubble about 1/8th
> > of an inch on the tip also.
> >
> > My questions are this is there anyway I can save the shaft as have
> > bought a brand new Geek driver head to replace the Benross one as this
> > cracked at the welds and was bought second hand so no way to get come
> > back from manufacturer ?
> >
> > I was wondering if you can stik the graphite back with epoxy or should
> > I cut off the effected part and make the shaft shorter I believe it
> > will make the shaft stiffer it the second is option is done.
> >
> > I am an under hight golffer i.e only 5,3" tall and think a shorter
> > shaft would better my performance due to this.
> >
> > any help would be very welcomed.
> >
>
> The shaft, as-is, is almost certainly ruined. Do not use it as-is
> unless you want to see the head flying downrange, or worse, toward
> someone's head.
>
> You can, if you can identify where on the shaft the damage stops,
> tip-trim it to that place, and see if you have enough parallel tip
> section to still install it in the clubhead. I looked up the Aldila NVS
> online, and the parallel tip section is 3", which means you'll probably
> barely have enough, after trimming the damage, to seat it in the hosel.
>
> But realize that tip trimming will significantly change the feel of the
> club for you, making it stiffer. A lot stiffer.
>
> That may or may not be a bad thing, but the club's playing
> characteristics will change significantly.
>
> Mike
>
> PS: The trick to pulling shafts is that pressure is more important than
> heat. I never use a torch to heat a clubhead, only a heat gun. I put
> pressure on the shaft/clubhead union using a shaft puller, then heat the
> hosel. The instant the epoxy bond fails, I crank the puller as fast as
> I can to get the head off as quickly as possible.
>
> You don't need a ton of heat to compromise the epoxy, but you do need
> significant pressure. And it has to be straight-line pressure (no
> twisting) to effectively pull graphite shafts so they can be used again.
>
>
> --
> Mike Dalecki GCA Accredited Clubmaker http://clubdoctor.com
> RSG-Wisconsin 2006 Report http://dalecki.net/rsgwis2006/pics/
> RSG-Wisconsin 2007: June 22-24----Lawsonia!
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Date: 11 Jan 2007 07:53:34
From: Mike Dalecki
Subject: Re: Graphite shaft damage
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squelchy wrote:
> Hi
>
> I have just removed a Benross V12+ head from an alvida NVS orrange
> shaft and think I have over heated the head as when removed the head
> the graphite shaft has started to fray about 1 inch from the tip and a
> paper thin amount of graphite there is also a small bubble about 1/8th
> of an inch on the tip also.
>
> My questions are this is there anyway I can save the shaft as have
> bought a brand new Geek driver head to replace the Benross one as this
> cracked at the welds and was bought second hand so no way to get come
> back from manufacturer ?
>
> I was wondering if you can stik the graphite back with epoxy or should
> I cut off the effected part and make the shaft shorter I believe it
> will make the shaft stiffer it the second is option is done.
>
> I am an under hight golffer i.e only 5,3" tall and think a shorter
> shaft would better my performance due to this.
>
> any help would be very welcomed.
>
The shaft, as-is, is almost certainly ruined. Do not use it as-is
unless you want to see the head flying downrange, or worse, toward
someone's head.
You can, if you can identify where on the shaft the damage stops,
tip-trim it to that place, and see if you have enough parallel tip
section to still install it in the clubhead. I looked up the Aldila NVS
online, and the parallel tip section is 3", which means you'll probably
barely have enough, after trimming the damage, to seat it in the hosel.
But realize that tip trimming will significantly change the feel of the
club for you, making it stiffer. A lot stiffer.
That may or may not be a bad thing, but the club's playing
characteristics will change significantly.
Mike
PS: The trick to pulling shafts is that pressure is more important than
heat. I never use a torch to heat a clubhead, only a heat gun. I put
pressure on the shaft/clubhead union using a shaft puller, then heat the
hosel. The instant the epoxy bond fails, I crank the puller as fast as
I can to get the head off as quickly as possible.
You don't need a ton of heat to compromise the epoxy, but you do need
significant pressure. And it has to be straight-line pressure (no
twisting) to effectively pull graphite shafts so they can be used again.
--
Mike Dalecki GCA Accredited Clubmaker http://clubdoctor.com
RSG-Wisconsin 2006 Report http://dalecki.net/rsgwis2006/pics/
RSG-Wisconsin 2007: June 22-24----Lawsonia!
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Date: 11 Jan 2007 16:05:23
From: Dave Lee
Subject: Re: Graphite shaft damage
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"Mike Dalecki" <mike@removeclubdoctor.com > wrote in message
news:50mtr7F1gmknkU1@mid.individual.net...
> squelchy wrote:
> > Hi
> >
> >snip
>
> You can, if you can identify where on the shaft the damage stops,
> tip-trim it to that place, and see if you have enough parallel tip
> section to still install it in the clubhead. I looked up the Aldila NVS
> online, and the parallel tip section is 3", which means you'll probably
> barely have enough, after trimming the damage, to seat it in the hosel.
>
> But realize that tip trimming will significantly change the feel of the
> club for you, making it stiffer. A lot stiffer.
>
> That may or may not be a bad thing, but the club's playing
> characteristics will change significantly.
>
> Mike
>
> PS: The trick to pulling shafts is that pressure is more important than
> heat. I never use a torch to heat a clubhead, only a heat gun. I put
> pressure on the shaft/clubhead union using a shaft puller, then heat the
> hosel. The instant the epoxy bond fails, I crank the puller as fast as
> I can to get the head off as quickly as possible.
>
> You don't need a ton of heat to compromise the epoxy, but you do need
> significant pressure. And it has to be straight-line pressure (no
> twisting) to effectively pull graphite shafts so they can be used again.
>
>
> --
> Mike Dalecki GCA Accredited Clubmaker http://clubdoctor.com
> RSG-Wisconsin 2006 Report http://dalecki.net/rsgwis2006/pics/
> RSG-Wisconsin 2007: June 22-24----Lawsonia!
Mike, a few weeks ago I pulled a stubborn steel shaft off a 5i by putting
the head end in a gas grill for 5 minutes or so. Are you saying that I
shouldn't do this with my graphite shafted driver :-)
dave
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