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Main
Date: 08 Mar 2007 16:47:25
From: Lloyd Parsons
Subject: Driver questions
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I've got a hell of a collection of drivers, from 8.5 to 13 degrees,
senior to stiff flex in graphite, even a couple of offset ones and one
persimmon driver with a Rifle 6.0 steel shaft.
With every graphite shafted driver I've got, the slice is almost always
there. Lessons have lessened the slice, but nothing gets rid of it.
Except when I start using the Louisville Golf St II driver. Smaller
head (250cc), rifle 6.0 steel shafted. I hit this one dead straight
nearly all the time. If I have a slice happen with it, it is apparent
that it was a mishit.
So what the heck is so different about that driver and my swing than
with any graphite shafted one? Is it the swingweight? or the way the
weight is distributed? Or is it just the difference in the shaft?
I don't have this problem with fairway woods, or at least I can control
it better with them.
Any thoughts?
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Date: 08 Mar 2007 23:20:56
From: Tom K
Subject: Re: Driver questions
|
"Lloyd Parsons" <lloydparsons@mac.com > wrote in message
news:lloydparsons-CEC5A6.16472508032007@individual.net...
> I've got a hell of a collection of drivers, from 8.5 to 13 degrees,
> senior to stiff flex in graphite, even a couple of offset ones and one
> persimmon driver with a Rifle 6.0 steel shaft.
>
> With every graphite shafted driver I've got, the slice is almost always
> there. Lessons have lessened the slice, but nothing gets rid of it.
>
> Except when I start using the Louisville Golf St II driver. Smaller
> head (250cc), rifle 6.0 steel shafted. I hit this one dead straight
> nearly all the time. If I have a slice happen with it, it is apparent
> that it was a mishit.
>
> So what the heck is so different about that driver and my swing than
> with any graphite shafted one? Is it the swingweight? or the way the
> weight is distributed? Or is it just the difference in the shaft?
>
> I don't have this problem with fairway woods, or at least I can control
> it better with them.
>
> Any thoughts?
Lloyd....
Go to a Golfsmith and tell them you're interested in a new driver... and
they'll put you on the swing analyzer thingee for free. You don't need to
buy that day... tell them you're just starting the process. They'll work
with you.
Second... many drivers simply don't have good shafts.... and likely not one
that matches your swing. For the 460cc heads, you need a shaft that keeps
the head from torque'ing. A shaft like the $40 Harrison Striper J is a good
shaft for a big head driver. See if they have a large head driver with that
shaft. Try it and see what read outs you get. To ME... shaft is MUCH more
important than the driver head. I love my KZG driver, but when I had the
Graphite Design YS6 shaft on it... it was a piece of junk (sliced
everything). The asst-pro at the shop looked at my swing and said that when
my hands were going through the impact zone, the club head was lagging and
open faced. When I switched to a YS7 shaft... the slice went away. The
characteristics of the YS7 were better with respect to my swing. When I
switched to the Harrison Striper J, I added yardage, and didn't lose
accuracy. Best of both worlds.
And don't be afraid to take an inch off the shaft to make it easier to hit.
Mine's an inch shorter, even though I'm 6'2".
But first, get on the swing analyzer. And bring the driver you can hit...
and get the read outs on that. Figure out what there is about it that
works.
--Tom
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| | |
Date: 09 Mar 2007 11:09:43
From: Lloyd Parsons
Subject: Re: Driver questions
|
In article <Jg5Ih.484$FX1.162@newsfe12.lga >,
"Tom K" <tkanitra@optonline.net > wrote:
> "Lloyd Parsons" <lloydparsons@mac.com> wrote in message
> news:lloydparsons-CEC5A6.16472508032007@individual.net...
> > I've got a hell of a collection of drivers, from 8.5 to 13 degrees,
> > senior to stiff flex in graphite, even a couple of offset ones and one
> > persimmon driver with a Rifle 6.0 steel shaft.
> >
> > With every graphite shafted driver I've got, the slice is almost always
> > there. Lessons have lessened the slice, but nothing gets rid of it.
> >
> > Except when I start using the Louisville Golf St II driver. Smaller
> > head (250cc), rifle 6.0 steel shafted. I hit this one dead straight
> > nearly all the time. If I have a slice happen with it, it is apparent
> > that it was a mishit.
> >
> > So what the heck is so different about that driver and my swing than
> > with any graphite shafted one? Is it the swingweight? or the way the
> > weight is distributed? Or is it just the difference in the shaft?
> >
> > I don't have this problem with fairway woods, or at least I can control
> > it better with them.
> >
> > Any thoughts?
>
> Lloyd....
>
> Go to a Golfsmith and tell them you're interested in a new driver... and
> they'll put you on the swing analyzer thingee for free. You don't need to
> buy that day... tell them you're just starting the process. They'll work
> with you.
>
> Second... many drivers simply don't have good shafts.... and likely not one
> that matches your swing. For the 460cc heads, you need a shaft that keeps
> the head from torque'ing. A shaft like the $40 Harrison Striper J is a good
> shaft for a big head driver. See if they have a large head driver with that
> shaft. Try it and see what read outs you get. To ME... shaft is MUCH more
> important than the driver head. I love my KZG driver, but when I had the
> Graphite Design YS6 shaft on it... it was a piece of junk (sliced
> everything). The asst-pro at the shop looked at my swing and said that when
> my hands were going through the impact zone, the club head was lagging and
> open faced. When I switched to a YS7 shaft... the slice went away. The
> characteristics of the YS7 were better with respect to my swing. When I
> switched to the Harrison Striper J, I added yardage, and didn't lose
> accuracy. Best of both worlds.
>
> And don't be afraid to take an inch off the shaft to make it easier to hit.
> Mine's an inch shorter, even though I'm 6'2".
>
> But first, get on the swing analyzer. And bring the driver you can hit...
> and get the read outs on that. Figure out what there is about it that
> works.
>
> --Tom
Unfortunately, the closest Golfsmith to me is Memphis, about a 5 hour
drive. I think there is a golf place in Paducah (about 60 miles) that
has a swing analyser. I'll check on that. Thanks for that suggestion.
With my persimmon, my distance is around the 175yd point, most often
straight out in front. And one advantage for me with this driver, is
that I can hit it off the deck easier than the big head drivers. With a
graphite shafted metal driver, I'm usually around the 200yd point, but
either faded to the rough or sliced into the woods...
|
| | | |
Date: 09 Mar 2007 23:14:34
From: Tom K
Subject: Re: Driver questions
|
"Lloyd Parsons" <lloydparsons@mac.com > wrote in message
news:lloydparsons-FB8779.11094309032007@individual.net...
> In article <Jg5Ih.484$FX1.162@newsfe12.lga>,
> "Tom K" <tkanitra@optonline.net> wrote:
>
>> "Lloyd Parsons" <lloydparsons@mac.com> wrote in message
>> news:lloydparsons-CEC5A6.16472508032007@individual.net...
>> > I've got a hell of a collection of drivers, from 8.5 to 13 degrees,
>> > senior to stiff flex in graphite, even a couple of offset ones and one
>> > persimmon driver with a Rifle 6.0 steel shaft.
>> >
>> > With every graphite shafted driver I've got, the slice is almost always
>> > there. Lessons have lessened the slice, but nothing gets rid of it.
>> >
>> > Except when I start using the Louisville Golf St II driver. Smaller
>> > head (250cc), rifle 6.0 steel shafted. I hit this one dead straight
>> > nearly all the time. If I have a slice happen with it, it is apparent
>> > that it was a mishit.
>> >
>> > So what the heck is so different about that driver and my swing than
>> > with any graphite shafted one? Is it the swingweight? or the way the
>> > weight is distributed? Or is it just the difference in the shaft?
>> >
>> > I don't have this problem with fairway woods, or at least I can control
>> > it better with them.
>> >
>> > Any thoughts?
>>
>> Lloyd....
>>
>> Go to a Golfsmith and tell them you're interested in a new driver... and
>> they'll put you on the swing analyzer thingee for free. You don't need
>> to
>> buy that day... tell them you're just starting the process. They'll work
>> with you.
>>
>> Second... many drivers simply don't have good shafts.... and likely not
>> one
>> that matches your swing. For the 460cc heads, you need a shaft that
>> keeps
>> the head from torque'ing. A shaft like the $40 Harrison Striper J is a
>> good
>> shaft for a big head driver. See if they have a large head driver with
>> that
>> shaft. Try it and see what read outs you get. To ME... shaft is MUCH
>> more
>> important than the driver head. I love my KZG driver, but when I had the
>> Graphite Design YS6 shaft on it... it was a piece of junk (sliced
>> everything). The asst-pro at the shop looked at my swing and said that
>> when
>> my hands were going through the impact zone, the club head was lagging
>> and
>> open faced. When I switched to a YS7 shaft... the slice went away. The
>> characteristics of the YS7 were better with respect to my swing. When I
>> switched to the Harrison Striper J, I added yardage, and didn't lose
>> accuracy. Best of both worlds.
>>
>> And don't be afraid to take an inch off the shaft to make it easier to
>> hit.
>> Mine's an inch shorter, even though I'm 6'2".
>>
>> But first, get on the swing analyzer. And bring the driver you can
>> hit...
>> and get the read outs on that. Figure out what there is about it that
>> works.
>>
>> --Tom
>
> Unfortunately, the closest Golfsmith to me is Memphis, about a 5 hour
> drive. I think there is a golf place in Paducah (about 60 miles) that
> has a swing analyser. I'll check on that. Thanks for that suggestion.
>
> With my persimmon, my distance is around the 175yd point, most often
> straight out in front. And one advantage for me with this driver, is
> that I can hit it off the deck easier than the big head drivers. With a
> graphite shafted metal driver, I'm usually around the 200yd point, but
> either faded to the rough or sliced into the woods...
Another thing you might want to look at is a high loft driver, like a 15
degree. That's the loft of a 3 wood, but with the large forgiving head of a
driver.
Maybe with a new driver matched to your swing, we can get you up around 220
yards straight. Versus 175 yards, that 4-5 clubs differentiial for your
second shot. Instead of a 4I to the green, it might be an 8I. That's a BIG
difference in terms of accuracy in hitting the green with your second shot.
--Tom
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| | | | |
Date: 09 Mar 2007 22:40:53
From: Lloyd Parsons
Subject: Re: Driver questions
|
In article <MgqIh.659$c46.140@newsfe12.lga >,
"Tom K" <tkanitra@optonline.net > wrote:
> "Lloyd Parsons" <lloydparsons@mac.com> wrote in message
> news:lloydparsons-FB8779.11094309032007@individual.net...
> > In article <Jg5Ih.484$FX1.162@newsfe12.lga>,
> > "Tom K" <tkanitra@optonline.net> wrote:
> >
> >> "Lloyd Parsons" <lloydparsons@mac.com> wrote in message
> >> news:lloydparsons-CEC5A6.16472508032007@individual.net...
> >> > I've got a hell of a collection of drivers, from 8.5 to 13 degrees,
> >> > senior to stiff flex in graphite, even a couple of offset ones and one
> >> > persimmon driver with a Rifle 6.0 steel shaft.
> >> >
> >> > With every graphite shafted driver I've got, the slice is almost always
> >> > there. Lessons have lessened the slice, but nothing gets rid of it.
> >> >
> >> > Except when I start using the Louisville Golf St II driver. Smaller
> >> > head (250cc), rifle 6.0 steel shafted. I hit this one dead straight
> >> > nearly all the time. If I have a slice happen with it, it is apparent
> >> > that it was a mishit.
> >> >
> >> > So what the heck is so different about that driver and my swing than
> >> > with any graphite shafted one? Is it the swingweight? or the way the
> >> > weight is distributed? Or is it just the difference in the shaft?
> >> >
> >> > I don't have this problem with fairway woods, or at least I can control
> >> > it better with them.
> >> >
> >> > Any thoughts?
> >>
> >> Lloyd....
> >>
> >> Go to a Golfsmith and tell them you're interested in a new driver... and
> >> they'll put you on the swing analyzer thingee for free. You don't need
> >> to
> >> buy that day... tell them you're just starting the process. They'll work
> >> with you.
> >>
> >> Second... many drivers simply don't have good shafts.... and likely not
> >> one
> >> that matches your swing. For the 460cc heads, you need a shaft that
> >> keeps
> >> the head from torque'ing. A shaft like the $40 Harrison Striper J is a
> >> good
> >> shaft for a big head driver. See if they have a large head driver with
> >> that
> >> shaft. Try it and see what read outs you get. To ME... shaft is MUCH
> >> more
> >> important than the driver head. I love my KZG driver, but when I had the
> >> Graphite Design YS6 shaft on it... it was a piece of junk (sliced
> >> everything). The asst-pro at the shop looked at my swing and said that
> >> when
> >> my hands were going through the impact zone, the club head was lagging
> >> and
> >> open faced. When I switched to a YS7 shaft... the slice went away. The
> >> characteristics of the YS7 were better with respect to my swing. When I
> >> switched to the Harrison Striper J, I added yardage, and didn't lose
> >> accuracy. Best of both worlds.
> >>
> >> And don't be afraid to take an inch off the shaft to make it easier to
> >> hit.
> >> Mine's an inch shorter, even though I'm 6'2".
> >>
> >> But first, get on the swing analyzer. And bring the driver you can
> >> hit...
> >> and get the read outs on that. Figure out what there is about it that
> >> works.
> >>
> >> --Tom
> >
> > Unfortunately, the closest Golfsmith to me is Memphis, about a 5 hour
> > drive. I think there is a golf place in Paducah (about 60 miles) that
> > has a swing analyser. I'll check on that. Thanks for that suggestion.
> >
> > With my persimmon, my distance is around the 175yd point, most often
> > straight out in front. And one advantage for me with this driver, is
> > that I can hit it off the deck easier than the big head drivers. With a
> > graphite shafted metal driver, I'm usually around the 200yd point, but
> > either faded to the rough or sliced into the woods...
>
> Another thing you might want to look at is a high loft driver, like a 15
> degree. That's the loft of a 3 wood, but with the large forgiving head of a
> driver.
>
> Maybe with a new driver matched to your swing, we can get you up around 220
> yards straight. Versus 175 yards, that 4-5 clubs differentiial for your
> second shot. Instead of a 4I to the green, it might be an 8I. That's a BIG
> difference in terms of accuracy in hitting the green with your second shot.
>
> --Tom
I've done the high lofted driver trick. Straight, but not long at all.
Today I cranked the weights around on the R7 and set it for neutral, low
trajectory. This is an 8.5 Stiff shafted driver. Nice and straight, a
bit longer. I'll keep working with this one for a bit to see what
develops.
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Date: 10 Mar 2007 08:10:42
From: carl llewellyn
Subject: Re: Driver questions
|
Judging from what you said, it seems like you are hitting the smaller
headed clubs better than the large headed ones.
|
| | | | | | |
Date: 10 Mar 2007 10:29:57
From: Lloyd Parsons
Subject: Re: Driver questions
|
In article <10160-45F2AE52-111@storefull-3157.bay.webtv.net >,
cplcar@webtv.net (carl llewellyn) wrote:
> Judging from what you said, it seems like you are hitting the smaller
> headed clubs better than the large headed ones.
I've noticed that too. Seems weird that would be the case though. But
maybe the smaller head forces me to concentrate on where my eyes are
during the swing. Or maybe my head tells me that I don't need to be so
careful with the bigheads and just swing away.
|
| | | | | | | |
Date: 10 Mar 2007 18:41:08
From: Tom K
Subject: Re: Driver questions
|
"Lloyd Parsons" <lloydparsons@mac.com > wrote in message
news:lloydparsons-B51075.10295710032007@individual.net...
> In article <10160-45F2AE52-111@storefull-3157.bay.webtv.net>,
> cplcar@webtv.net (carl llewellyn) wrote:
>
>> Judging from what you said, it seems like you are hitting the smaller
>> headed clubs better than the large headed ones.
>
> I've noticed that too. Seems weird that would be the case though. But
> maybe the smaller head forces me to concentrate on where my eyes are
> during the swing. Or maybe my head tells me that I don't need to be so
> careful with the bigheads and just swing away.
I'm thinking it's not the head... it's most likely the shaft.
Shaft swing characteristics can make a MAJOR difference.
--Tom
|
| |
Date: 09 Mar 2007 01:46:24
From: Dave Lee
Subject: Re: Driver questions
|
"Lloyd Parsons" <lloydparsons@mac.com > wrote in message
news:lloydparsons-CEC5A6.16472508032007@individual.net...
> I've got a hell of a collection of drivers, from 8.5 to 13 degrees,
> senior to stiff flex in graphite, even a couple of offset ones and one
> persimmon driver with a Rifle 6.0 steel shaft.
>
> With every graphite shafted driver I've got, the slice is almost always
> there. Lessons have lessened the slice, but nothing gets rid of it.
>
> Except when I start using the Louisville Golf St II driver. Smaller
> head (250cc), rifle 6.0 steel shafted. I hit this one dead straight
> nearly all the time. If I have a slice happen with it, it is apparent
> that it was a mishit.
>
> So what the heck is so different about that driver and my swing than
> with any graphite shafted one? Is it the swingweight? or the way the
> weight is distributed? Or is it just the difference in the shaft?
>
> I don't have this problem with fairway woods, or at least I can control
> it better with them.
>
> Any thoughts?
The first thing that I would look at here is club length. I suspect that the
driver that you can hit (steel shaft) is around 43" as are your fairway
woods. The drivers that you have problems with are probably more like 45".
It would appear (or at least be a good guess) that you have trouble
controlling a club longer than your fairway woods and steel shafted driver.
Getting one of your drivers cut down would be reasonable next step. You'll
have to add some lead tape to get the swingweight back up to something
reasonable.
dave
|
| | |
Date: 08 Mar 2007 21:39:48
From: Lloyd Parsons
Subject: Re: Driver questions
|
In article <Q%2Ih.125379$_73.100295@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net >,
"Dave Lee" <DaveLeeNC@ix.netcom.RemovE.com > wrote:
> "Lloyd Parsons" <lloydparsons@mac.com> wrote in message
> news:lloydparsons-CEC5A6.16472508032007@individual.net...
> > I've got a hell of a collection of drivers, from 8.5 to 13 degrees,
> > senior to stiff flex in graphite, even a couple of offset ones and one
> > persimmon driver with a Rifle 6.0 steel shaft.
> >
> > With every graphite shafted driver I've got, the slice is almost always
> > there. Lessons have lessened the slice, but nothing gets rid of it.
> >
> > Except when I start using the Louisville Golf St II driver. Smaller
> > head (250cc), rifle 6.0 steel shafted. I hit this one dead straight
> > nearly all the time. If I have a slice happen with it, it is apparent
> > that it was a mishit.
> >
> > So what the heck is so different about that driver and my swing than
> > with any graphite shafted one? Is it the swingweight? or the way the
> > weight is distributed? Or is it just the difference in the shaft?
> >
> > I don't have this problem with fairway woods, or at least I can control
> > it better with them.
> >
> > Any thoughts?
>
> The first thing that I would look at here is club length. I suspect that the
> driver that you can hit (steel shaft) is around 43" as are your fairway
> woods. The drivers that you have problems with are probably more like 45".
> It would appear (or at least be a good guess) that you have trouble
> controlling a club longer than your fairway woods and steel shafted driver.
>
> Getting one of your drivers cut down would be reasonable next step. You'll
> have to add some lead tape to get the swingweight back up to something
> reasonable.
>
> dave
Club length was what I first thought, but putting a TM R7 beside it, the
difference is only about 1/2". But that makes me think I might try
choking down a bit on the metal driver and see what that does.
As to adding weight to the metal clubhead. Where? Bottom at the back?
|
| | | |
Date: 09 Mar 2007 12:07:38
From: Dave Lee
Subject: Re: Driver questions
|
"Lloyd Parsons" <lloydparsons@mac.com > wrote in message
news:lloydparsons-713B46.21394808032007@individual.net...
> In article <Q%2Ih.125379$_73.100295@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net>,
> "Dave Lee" <DaveLeeNC@ix.netcom.RemovE.com> wrote:
>
> > "Lloyd Parsons" <lloydparsons@mac.com> wrote in message
> > news:lloydparsons-CEC5A6.16472508032007@individual.net...
> > > I've got a hell of a collection of drivers, from 8.5 to 13 degrees,
> > > senior to stiff flex in graphite, even a couple of offset ones and one
> > > persimmon driver with a Rifle 6.0 steel shaft.
> > >
> > > With every graphite shafted driver I've got, the slice is almost
always
> > > there. Lessons have lessened the slice, but nothing gets rid of it.
> > >
> > > Except when I start using the Louisville Golf St II driver.
Smaller
> > > head (250cc), rifle 6.0 steel shafted. I hit this one dead straight
> > > nearly all the time. If I have a slice happen with it, it is apparent
> > > that it was a mishit.
> > >
> > > So what the heck is so different about that driver and my swing than
> > > with any graphite shafted one? Is it the swingweight? or the way the
> > > weight is distributed? Or is it just the difference in the shaft?
> > >
> > > I don't have this problem with fairway woods, or at least I can
control
> > > it better with them.
> > >
> > > Any thoughts?
> >
> > The first thing that I would look at here is club length. I suspect that
the
> > driver that you can hit (steel shaft) is around 43" as are your fairway
> > woods. The drivers that you have problems with are probably more like
45".
> > It would appear (or at least be a good guess) that you have trouble
> > controlling a club longer than your fairway woods and steel shafted
driver.
> >
> > Getting one of your drivers cut down would be reasonable next step.
You'll
> > have to add some lead tape to get the swingweight back up to something
> > reasonable.
> >
> > dave
>
> Club length was what I first thought, but putting a TM R7 beside it, the
> difference is only about 1/2". But that makes me think I might try
> choking down a bit on the metal driver and see what that does.
>
> As to adding weight to the metal clubhead. Where? Bottom at the back?
If you were just playing around then I'd put the lead tape on the bottom.
For a more permanent solution the head can be removed and you (or someone)
can put a 'lead slug' in the tip end of the shaft.
But if you have a driver with a steel shaft that is only 1/2" shorter than a
TM R7, then that driver might well have a significantly higher swingweight
than the clubs that you can't hit. So maybe this is a swingweight question.
dave
|
| | | | |
Date: 09 Mar 2007 11:11:42
From: Lloyd Parsons
Subject: Re: Driver questions
|
In article <e6cIh.10755$tD2.10320@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net >,
"Dave Lee" <DaveLeeNC@ix.netcom.RemovE.com > wrote:
> "Lloyd Parsons" <lloydparsons@mac.com> wrote in message
> news:lloydparsons-713B46.21394808032007@individual.net...
> > In article <Q%2Ih.125379$_73.100295@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net>,
> > "Dave Lee" <DaveLeeNC@ix.netcom.RemovE.com> wrote:
> >
> > > "Lloyd Parsons" <lloydparsons@mac.com> wrote in message
> > > news:lloydparsons-CEC5A6.16472508032007@individual.net...
> > > > I've got a hell of a collection of drivers, from 8.5 to 13 degrees,
> > > > senior to stiff flex in graphite, even a couple of offset ones and one
> > > > persimmon driver with a Rifle 6.0 steel shaft.
> > > >
> > > > With every graphite shafted driver I've got, the slice is almost
> always
> > > > there. Lessons have lessened the slice, but nothing gets rid of it.
> > > >
> > > > Except when I start using the Louisville Golf St II driver.
> Smaller
> > > > head (250cc), rifle 6.0 steel shafted. I hit this one dead straight
> > > > nearly all the time. If I have a slice happen with it, it is apparent
> > > > that it was a mishit.
> > > >
> > > > So what the heck is so different about that driver and my swing than
> > > > with any graphite shafted one? Is it the swingweight? or the way the
> > > > weight is distributed? Or is it just the difference in the shaft?
> > > >
> > > > I don't have this problem with fairway woods, or at least I can
> control
> > > > it better with them.
> > > >
> > > > Any thoughts?
> > >
> > > The first thing that I would look at here is club length. I suspect that
> the
> > > driver that you can hit (steel shaft) is around 43" as are your fairway
> > > woods. The drivers that you have problems with are probably more like
> 45".
> > > It would appear (or at least be a good guess) that you have trouble
> > > controlling a club longer than your fairway woods and steel shafted
> driver.
> > >
> > > Getting one of your drivers cut down would be reasonable next step.
> You'll
> > > have to add some lead tape to get the swingweight back up to something
> > > reasonable.
> > >
> > > dave
> >
> > Club length was what I first thought, but putting a TM R7 beside it, the
> > difference is only about 1/2". But that makes me think I might try
> > choking down a bit on the metal driver and see what that does.
> >
> > As to adding weight to the metal clubhead. Where? Bottom at the back?
>
> If you were just playing around then I'd put the lead tape on the bottom.
> For a more permanent solution the head can be removed and you (or someone)
> can put a 'lead slug' in the tip end of the shaft.
>
> But if you have a driver with a steel shaft that is only 1/2" shorter than a
> TM R7, then that driver might well have a significantly higher swingweight
> than the clubs that you can't hit. So maybe this is a swingweight question.
>
> dave
I'll get some tape and give it a try, worst that happens is it doesn't
help.
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Date: 08 Mar 2007 18:20:06
From: David Geesaman
Subject: Re: Driver questions
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Lloyd Parsons wrote:
> I've got a hell of a collection of drivers, from 8.5 to 13 degrees,
> senior to stiff flex in graphite, even a couple of offset ones and one
> persimmon driver with a Rifle 6.0 steel shaft.
>
> With every graphite shafted driver I've got, the slice is almost always
> there. Lessons have lessened the slice, but nothing gets rid of it.
>
> Except when I start using the Louisville Golf St II driver. Smaller
> head (250cc), rifle 6.0 steel shafted. I hit this one dead straight
> nearly all the time. If I have a slice happen with it, it is apparent
> that it was a mishit.
>
> So what the heck is so different about that driver and my swing than
> with any graphite shafted one? Is it the swingweight? or the way the
> weight is distributed? Or is it just the difference in the shaft?
>
> I don't have this problem with fairway woods, or at least I can control
> it better with them.
>
> Any thoughts?
I would suspect to a large extent the difference is total weight and
swingweight. To a lesser extent, the torque (torsional stiffness).
Dave
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Date: 08 Mar 2007 21:37:58
From: Lloyd Parsons
Subject: Re: Driver questions
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In article <esq5n002dsl@news2.newsguy.com >,
David Geesaman <dgeesamanIHateSpam@yahoo.com > wrote:
> Lloyd Parsons wrote:
> > I've got a hell of a collection of drivers, from 8.5 to 13 degrees,
> > senior to stiff flex in graphite, even a couple of offset ones and one
> > persimmon driver with a Rifle 6.0 steel shaft.
> >
> > With every graphite shafted driver I've got, the slice is almost always
> > there. Lessons have lessened the slice, but nothing gets rid of it.
> >
> > Except when I start using the Louisville Golf St II driver. Smaller
> > head (250cc), rifle 6.0 steel shafted. I hit this one dead straight
> > nearly all the time. If I have a slice happen with it, it is apparent
> > that it was a mishit.
> >
> > So what the heck is so different about that driver and my swing than
> > with any graphite shafted one? Is it the swingweight? or the way the
> > weight is distributed? Or is it just the difference in the shaft?
> >
> > I don't have this problem with fairway woods, or at least I can control
> > it better with them.
> >
> > Any thoughts?
>
> I would suspect to a large extent the difference is total weight and
> swingweight. To a lesser extent, the torque (torsional stiffness).
>
> Dave
Hmm... It is a bit heavier and certainly more head heavy than the
metalwood drivers. Maybe throw some weight on a metalwood?
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